Still think metal roofing is niche? Nope. Alongside classic roofing materials like asphalt or tile shingles, your roofing business should absolutely be selling that good, good adaptable alloy.
Whether you’re in Tampa, Tucson, Tacoma, or Toronto, metal roofing is everywhere now. It lasts longer, handles winds and storms like a champ, and looks shiny and modern.
Only problem: if you’re a new roofing business owner, it takes serious work to learn all the panel names. R-panel. AG-panel. U-panel. Through-fastened. Standing seam. Galvalume. 26-gauge. 29-gauge. Good god. It’s a lot to remember.
So today, we’re talkin’ metal roofing. What the panels are and what sets ‘em apart. Plus install tips, common mistakes, and when to recommend a metal roof (and when not to). If you’re trying to grow your metal roofing skills or expand your business offerings, this’ll save you a lot of guessing, callbacks, and head-scratching.
Let’s get into it.
What metal roof panels actually are
Here’s all you need to know. Metal roof panels come down to three important things:
- The profile (the shape of the ribs, AKA the vertical ridges).
- The gauge (thickness).
- The coating (either paint or Galvalume).
That’s really it. From there, most through-fastened panels on the market fall into one of three basic families: R-panel, AG-panel, or U-panel.
- They all install with exposed fasteners.
- They all shed water well (when installed right).
- And they’re all easier to put on than a standing seam metal roof.
But each type of panel has its unique characteristics and fits different types of jobs. Before we compare ‘em, let’s hit some basics.
Common metal choices you’ll work with
Most metal roofing in residential and light commercial work uses:
- Galvalume-coated steel
- Painted steel (brands include Kynar or SMP)
- Aluminum (good for coastal areas — resistant to salt spray)
- Copper or zinc (high-end architectural, not really for everyday installs)
Most of the time, Galvalume steel is king for roofing contractors. It’s affordable, strong, resists corrosion, and available pretty much everywhere.
Let’s talk metal roofing gauges
Gauge is the next big question, and it’s easy to make the wrong call. So here’s what to keep in mind:
- 29-gauge is fine for barns, sheds, and budget jobs. Not for hail-heavy regions.
- 26-gauge is the standard for residential installs. Less prone to oil canning.
- 24-gauge is strong. Usually used for standing seam or high-end metal systems.
To avoid callbacks after big storms, don’t lowball the gauge. 26-gauge should be your go-to, and avoid 29-gauge if you can.
R-Panel vs. AG-Panel vs. U-Panel: What’s the difference?
Alright! Let’s get into it, panel by panel. Here’s the clearest breakdown possible.
R-Panel (AKA PBR Panel)
R-panel is the workhorse of the commercial metal world. It’s got tall ribs, deep valleys, and a strong structural capacity.
Best for:
- Light commercial roofs
- Warehouses
- Pole buildings
- Retrofits over existing metal
Pros:
- Extremely strong
- Takes long spans with fewer purlins (support beams)
- Great uplift resistance
- Widely available
- Clean, modern look
Cons:
- Heavier
- Costs more than AG-panel
- Usually overkill for a residential install
If you want strength and don’t mind a heavier panel, R-panel is the safest choice. It might be a bit much for many simple residential roofs, but it can’t hurt. Install it right and never worry about maintenance.
AG-Panel (most common rural / residential metal)
If you’ve installed a residential metal roof before, odds are decent you’ve touched AG-panel. They have lower ribs and a “barn roof” style pattern, with a similar look to classic corrugated roof.
Best for:
- Many residential homes
- Barns
- Garages and shops
- Cabins
- Low-budget reroofs
Pros:
- Cheaper than R-panel
- Easy to source
- Installs fast
- Lightweight
- Great for new roofing crews
Cons:
- Not as rigid
- Can oil-can
- Can’t always handle extreme hail or wind
So, do you work in rural areas, on lower-budget projects, or in areas without extreme weather? AG-panel keeps pricing competitive, looks good, and is plenty strong for most residential jobs.
This is where the “R-panel vs. AG-panel” decision usually happens. If you want strength, go R-panel. If you want affordability, go AG-panel. Both options definitely have their place.
U-Panel (the underrated option)
U-panel is the middle child. It’s not used as often, but can still be very useful. U-panel has short ribs, a flatter appearance, and often uses thicker steel.
Best for:
- Interior liner panels
- Soffits
- Walls
- Residential roofs with certain building codes
Pros:
- Very clean, flat look
- Often available in thicker gauges
- Strong enough for many roof applications
Cons:
- Not stocked everywhere
- Less familiar to most roofers
- Not as watertight as standing seam (on low slopes)
So if we’re talking R-panel vs. U-panel, go with U-panel if money is a concern and durability isn’t.
It’s a great “more affordable” option for those who just can’t quite afford R-panel. And if a homeowner wants metal but hates the AG-panel ribbed look, U-panel is a solid compromise.
Metal roof fastener install tips
Here’s where most new metal roofers f**k up. Metal roofing lives or dies on fastener placement.
It’s worth drilling these rules into your crew:
- Fasteners go in the flats, not on the ribs.
- Use fasteners with EPDM washers, not cheap rubber.
- Over-torquing screws leads to leaks and panel distortion.
- Under-torquing screws means uplift issues.
- Always align screws in perfectly straight vertical lines.
- Replace old screws on repairs (NO exceptions).
And one more tip that saves lives: always install safety lines. Metal roofs are slick. Like really, really slick. Much more slippery than asphalt, especially in morning dew. So be cautious.
Common mistakes with metal roof panels
You’ll be miles ahead of other new companies if you avoid these rookie mistakes:
- Cutting panels with grinders (it burns off the protective coating)
- Not using closure strips
- Ignoring manufacturer specs for overlaps
- Choosing the cheapest paint finish (it fades fast)
- Ordering incorrect panel lengths
If you’re installing metal full time, get your crew trained on the right tools. The difference in quality is HUGE.
The best metal roof panel materials for 2026
Some of the strongest, most reliable panels on the market today include:
- Galvalume steel with Kynar 500 paint
- 26-gauge structural steel panels
- For premium homes: snap-lock standing seam
- For budget work: quality AG-panel
Roofing manufacturers doing good work right now include Berridge, Central States, MBCI, McElroy Metal, and Union Corrugating, among others. They all offer solid R-panel and AG-panel options.
So when should a roofer recommend metal roofing vs. asphalt?
Here’s the cheat sheet. Recommend metal when the customer wants:
- Long lifespan
- Lower maintenance
- High wind resistance
- Energy efficiency
- Fire-safe materials
- A modern look
Recommend asphalt or another material when the customer needs:
- A more affordable option
- Faster installation
- Traditional curb appeal
- If they plan to move within the next decade
Metal is a VERY strong upsell when you know how to explain the long-term value. Now you know! So add it to your own offerings.
Want an easier way to sell metal roofing jobs?
Metal roofing doesn’t have to feel intimidating. Once you get panel profiles and installation basics, it becomes one of the most profitable, reliable systems you can offer to homeowners.
If you’re growing a roofing business, metal is a smart add-on. It sets you apart from crews that only do shingles or tiles, and it lets you charge premium pricing once your team is trained.
And if you need help quoting, measuring, or presenting metal roofing jobs? Roofr has your back.
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